Step 16 - Now that the spindles and front suspension are all assembled (see below), torque em down tight (you will torque them to factory specs later) and hit everything that has a zerk fitting with a grease gun.
NOTE : Nows a good time to replace the Sway Bar, Go with a FAT aftermarket one or pull a 1.25 one from a late 70's Trans-Am at the boneyard. They bolt right onto 64-72 A-bodies, make sure you measure it and don't pay over 20 bucks for it. Normally bean counters suck, but in this case it allows re-use of later hi performance parts on our older classics! Being a suspension fanatic I bought an HO racing 1 3/8 unit for the front myself.
Step 17 - Time for the Rotors, Take your ILE-1 Rotors from a 89 Z28 and put the inner and outer bearings in. Make sure you have fully lubed them up with disc brake grease, really force the grease into the bearings. Now pop the grease seal into the back rotor. Grease the spindle up good and put the rotor on it. Now tighten the spindle nut & washer that you should have take with the spindles from the donor car and torque it on to factor specs and insert the cotter pin. Now put the grease seal cap (from the donor car) onto the rotor. All done with the rotor.
Step 18 - Now put the B-body calipers on using NEW rubber brake lines. Using the 72 caprice hoses I was able to fit them into the stock drum brackets. Now put in the new prop valve and master cylinder (if you didn't have disc's before hand, if you did the will work)
Step 19 - Now is a PERFECT time to replace those 30 year old brake lines. I bent & flared my own but its a HASSLE (but cheap if you already have a double walled flaring tool), so there are a few places you can order pre-bent lines. I am going to try this later on when I re-do my frame and I will use Stainless Steel ones. I have heard good things about this place. Just make sure to tell them EXACTLY what you did/have. There are other places around that do it as well.
Step 20 - Once all the brakes are hooked up, Filler up and bleed em!
Step 21 - Pretty darn close! Now toss on the wheels and put the car on the ground. Now tourqe the upper and lower ball joints to factory specs. Don't skip this set, or torque them while the car is up in the air, this is VERY important, trust me, I didn't do it the first time (I torqued them while car was jacked up) and mine were loose after a few miles.
Step 22 - Now do a driveway alignment so you can drive it a few miles to a good alignment shop who will align it to NON factory specs. To do a driveway alignment get another friend and measure the middle of the front and back of the front tires. Using the tape measure make those 2 measurements as close to identical as you can get them by adjusting using the tie rod sleeves. When they are the same distance in the front and back tighten them up and drive SLOWLY to the nearest alighment shop. Or just have it towed.
Step 23 - Once your alignment is done, and you tested the brakes, you are pretty much done. If I skipped over a step I apoligize, but If you have any questions or any info to share (I LOVE brake and suspension info) drop me a line spoliskey@hotmail.com.
Parts 1 Parts 2 Assembly 1 Assembly 2